Historical Islands

Piraeus – Hydra – Spetses – Piraeus

A journey that constitutes a small cruise in the Argosaronic Gulf and the two historic islands. Apart from the organized cruises available, visitors also can arrange it themselves, since ship schedules, especially during the summer, are quite frequent, permitting a “day cruise” while leaving a lot of time to visit the two islands. Indicatively, the “day cruise” can start from the Piraeus port at 8:30 in the morning and conclude in the evening at 22:00 (arrival in Piraeus), with the visitor having at least nine (9) hours at their disposal for visiting the two islands. However, you are strongly recommended to stay for at least one night on each island. During winter, the frequency of schedules is not enough for the proposed “day cruise”.

There are daily itineraries from Piraeus port to the two islands (Hydra and Spetses) by Flying Dolphins and Catamarans, which transport only passengers. Private vehicles are not allowed on Hydra and Spetses. The boats to Hydra and Spetses usually depart from gate E8, but this may change depending on the traffic inside the port. The frequency of itineraries varies according to the season, while additional ones are introduced in cases of increased demand (Easter, Pentecost, etc.). The duration of the journey is approximately two (2) hours, depending on the intermediate stops at other ports. Intermediate stops from Piraeus include the ports of Poros, Hydra, Spetses, and Ermioni (depending on the route plan), while most of the times Porto Heli is the final destination.

Additionally, the two islands can be reached from Metochi in Hydra and Costa for Spetses, but with smaller boats, as well as from Porto Heli and Ermioni.

The naval part of the route is available for disabled people, considering that this journey is mainly done by ship, and that the port of Piraeus has the appropriate infrastructure. However, that does not apply for the journey within the islands. You should also bear in mind that the infrastructure for the disabled people in the secondary ports is problematic to non-existent.

Note: The orientation and safety of the walker/visitor is their sole responsibility. The present description, the related tracks (gpx) and the other informative material are simply a guide and do not in any way replace the personal responsibility of the visitor.

Main landmarks:

• Piraeus Port
• Poros
• Hydra
• Cathedral of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary
• Ecclesiastical Museum
• Historical Archive – Museum of Hydra
• Church of the Presentation of Christ
• Mansion of Pavlos Koundouriotis
• Monastery of Prophet Ilias
• Monastery of Agia Triada
• Spetses
• Anargyrios and Korgialenios School of Spetses Foundation
• Τhe Bouboulina Museum
• Mansion of Sotirios Anargyros
• Museum of Spetses
• The Kapodistrian House of Spetses
• Agios Nikolaos Monastery
• Old Port of Spetses
• Lighthouse of Spetses

We start our route from the bustling yet charming Piraeus port. The boats to Hydra and the Argosaronic Gulf usually depart from gate E8, but this may change depending on the traffic inside the port.

Heading to Hydra, you usually pass through the beautiful and colorful island of Poros. The entire town of Poros, built amphitheatrically on the slopes of a hill, has been designated since 1993 as a traditional settlement. It features many neoclassical buildings, most of which have been declared as preserved. It consists of two islands, Sphairia and Kalavria, separated by a very small channel of sea. From the ship, we can admire the historic clock, a donation from the merchant and deputy Ioannis Papadopoulos, high on the hill of Sphairia, in the center of Poros, which is the island’s iconic landmark. In the northern part of the island, you can find the ruins of the ancient Temple of Poseidon, which was the center of the Amphictyony of Kalavria. Poros has many quiet, green beaches with crystal-clear waters.

After Poros, the ship reaches Hydra, and it’s time to disembark at the “Lady of the Argosaronic”. The capital of the island is Hydra, which is also the only organized settlement on the island. The island had been inhabited since the Neolithic era, and it was continuously populated until the Roman and Byzantine periods. Its significant development in recent years began in 1460 when Arvanites from the Peloponnese settled on the island, driven away by the Ottoman forces of Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror. It was then that the present-day town of Hydra began to be built around the hill of Kiafa for protection against pirate raids. Due to the small size and aridity of the island, locals turned early to shipping and trade, amassing wealth. In the years before the 1821 Revolution, Hydra was rich and populous, playing a significant role in the Revolution due to its large fleet of 186 ships. However, Hydra declined with the advent of steamships and the rise of Piraeus and Syros, leading to a significant portion of its population migrating. Today, its economy relies primarily on tourism and to a lesser extent on fishing.

The visitor’s first impression is exceptional, as the entire island has been declared a preserved area, and motor vehicles are prohibited. You will be welcomed by friendly donkeys and mules, taking you to a different time and era. On first glance will you will see mansions and captain’s houses, with unique architectural interest, traditional houses with tiled roofs, colorful doors and windows, churches and monasteries, cobblestone streets, shops, restaurants, and cafes, boats, water taxis, moored yachts, and sailboats. The seaside road, Pavlos Kountouriotis, stretches from the Petalo area to the statue of Admiral Miaoulis (Cavo Kastro). Vertical stone-paved alleys that lead to the upper neighborhoods, hidden from the sea. Prominent ship owners, naval heroes of 1821, and politicians hail from the island. Among them are Andreas Miaoulis, Kountouriotis, Kriezis, Tsamados, Schinias, Tompazis, Sachtouris, and others. The maritime tradition continues up to this day, and a proof of this is the fact that the island has been hosting the Merchant Marine Academy continuously since its liberation from the Ottomans, making it the oldest operating school for merchant navy officers in the eastern Mediterranean.

This tour of Hydra starts from the center of the port dominated by the Monastery, featuring the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the island’s Metropolitan Church, and the Ecclesiastical Museum. The monastery’s chapel, where legendary naval heroes often gathered to thank the Virgin Mary, is now the parish church of Hydra. The church is a triklit basilica with a dome, built in the 17th century and reconstructed in the late 18th century. The icons of the Virgin Mary and Christ are considered miraculous. The marble iconostasis and the rich interior decoration of the church are impressive, as well as the two marble bell towers of the Monastery, one of which has a clock. Chandeliers, two silver ones, and a golden six-light chandelier featuring the heads of the Bourbon kings of France illuminate the church. It is said that Pavlos Kountouriotis acquired the golden chandelier from Captain Sarkosi, who, in turn, had taken it from the Versailles. In the courtyard, you will see busts of Lazaros Kountouriotis, Andreas Miaoulis, King George I, and Antonis Lignos, sculpted by Dimitris Philippotis, as well as the tomb of Lazaros Kountouriotis and the monument to those who fell in the Balkan Wars. It is worth visiting the Ecclesiastical Museum located on the western side of the monastery complex around the old cells. Here, treasures of the monastery are preserved in special showcases, including dedications, sacred icons, such as the icon of the Virgin Mary “Rodo Amaranto”,’ made around 1774, liturgical vessels, musical manuscripts, Turkish firmans, and more.

Worth visiting is also the Historical Archive – Museum of Hydra. Its purpose is to preserve in our memory the struggles of the Hydriots, as well as their culture. The museum exhibits extend over two floors: Here, you will admire prominently displayed flags, weapons, uniforms, artifacts from the 1821 Revolution, from the Balkan Wars and the World Wars, a large collection of portraits and watercolors, Rigas’ Chart, a separate section with memorabilia from Admiral Pavlos Kountouriotis, and the silver urn with the preserved heart of Admiral Andreas Miaoulis.

Ascending through the narrow streets of Hydra, we head towards our next stop, the Presentation of Christ Church. This is one of the most historic churches on the island. It stands out with its reddish color, attributed to local construction material. The wood-carved iconostasis inside is considered famous. Built in 1780 by Lazaros Kokkinis, the grandfather of Bouboulina and the Kountouriotis family, the church’s courtyard contains the tombs of G. Kountouriotis and Sachtouris.

The nearby mansion of the Hydriot magnate Lazaros Kountouriotis is accessible from March to October. Built during the maritime prosperity of the island in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the residence was donated to the Historical and Ethnological Society of Greece by his great-grandson Pantelis Kountouriotis and his wife Froso, with the intention of transforming it into a museum. On the first floor, visitors can observe the interiors of a typical Hydriot mansion, while examining the furniture, paintings, utensils, and personal items of the Kountouriotis family. The upper floor exhibits a remarkable collection from the National Historical Museum, featuring traditional costumes, jewelry, decorative and utilitarian objects primarily related to the island’s traditional art. On the ground floor, in the old cellars of the house that have been appropriately arranged, permanent exhibitions showcase works by two renowned painters, Periklis Byzantios (1893-1972) and his son Konstantinos Byzantios (1924-2007).

Next stop is the Mansion of Pavlos Kountouriotis, situated on the slope of a pine-covered hill, to the west of the harbor. The building was constructed in the early 19th century. In 1991, the Ministry of Culture acquired it. Although it opens occasionally, it is worth seeing it up close so as to admire its architecture. In the interior , you will marvel at the artistry that went into creating the wooden ceilings, floors with black and white marble slabs, and the imposing staircase. The admiral was buried in 1935, on the slope of the hill between the sea and the mansion.

Continuing the exploration of the island, you can choose to visit the Monastery of Prophet Elias, celebrating on July 20th. You can take the uphill path that will lead you to the renowned monastery of Hydra, dating back to 1813, which was a dependency of the Monastery of Faneromeni. The ascent, although tiring, will reward you with the beautiful nature and exceptional views. The monastery’s church is a basilica with a dome, reminiscent of Mount Athos architecture. There are interesting icons, beautiful wood-carved iconostasis, and frescoes of the Pantocrator in the dome. During the 1821 Revolution , the monastery served as a prison, and it housed Kolokotronis along with other military leaders.

To end the visit, you can chose to explore the Monastery of Agia Triada. You can take the coastal road that connects the Town with Mandraki. Along the way, there are old cannons, which still stand proudly beneath Miaoulis Square, a huge modern sculpture, the Sun of Apollo, a wind-powered bronze artwork with a width of 9.1 meters, donated to the island by the artist Jeff Koons. You will also discover the small rocky beaches. Above the Mandraki area, east of the settlement, lies the Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) Monastery, built high at the mountain top. The establishment of the monastery goes back to 1704, with its founder being the priest Antonios Oikonomou. The monastery complex exhibits the characteristics of Orthodox monastic architecture, featuring a Byzantine-style church in the center, surrounded by various buildings, including an entrance with an arch, a garden, structures with a dining area, library, cells, guesthouse, etc. The icons in the church are likely to have been painted by the Hydriot iconographer Karatzas.

Hydra, regardless of the chosen route for exploration, is enjoyable and unique. That’s why renowned Greek and foreign painters such as Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, Tetsis, and Vyzantios depicted its landscapes in their works. It is not coincidental that there has been a branch of the School of Fine Arts in Hydra since 1936, housed in the four-story mansion of Emmanuel Tompazis and Xanthi D. Sachini in the western part of the harbor. The island became even more famous in the 1950s since the movie “Boy on a Dolphi” with Sophia Loren was filmed there. Many celebrities visited the island during that time, including John Lennon, Eric Clapton, the Rolling Stones, Onassis and Callas, Jackie O, Rex Harrison, Peter Ustinov, Soraya, Henry Miller, Leonard Cohen (who had a house on the island) Melina Merkouri with Dassin, and many others. Hydra continues to be sought after and greatly beloved.

Continuing to Spetses, another beautiful and historic island in the Saronic Gulf.

During the antiquity, the island was called “Pityonisos” and “Pityousa”, owing to its abundant pine trees. Its present name was given by medieval sailors (Catalans, Genoans, Venetians, and Franks), who referred to it as “Izola di Spezzie”, meaning the “Island of Aromas” due to its many flowers. During the Frankish rule, Spetses came under the Venetians (1220-1460) and later under the Turks. In the 17th century, its population mainly comprised Arvanite Christians who had settled there, since the 15th century. The original medieval settlement was northwest of the present-day town, in the area known today as “Kastelli”.

The residents of Spetses took part in the Russo-Turkish War (1770) and suffered a significant destruction from the Turks. However, after five years, they were granted amnesty, and at that time, the locals descended to the beach and built the present-day town. The patriotism of the people of Spetses was evident in 1790 when they hurried to assist Lambros Katsonis, and for this act, they once again faced new destruction from the Turks. During the 1821-1832 period, Spetses played a leading role in the Greek Revolution and was among the first to raise the flag of independence.

Today, Spetses is an ideal destination for short getaways throughout the year, as well as for summer vacations. The cosmopolitan atmosphere, stunning beaches, distinctive architecture, and the bustling Old Port will captivate us at first glance. In the narrow streets of the town of Spetses, you will encounter neoclassical houses, pebbled courtyards, colorful fragrant flowers, and beautiful balconies. In Spetses, cars are prohibited, and transportation is done by motorcycles, bicycles, taxis, horse-drawn carriages, and, of course, on foot!

Your stroll will start from the eastern side of the island so as to visit the Anargyrios and Korgialenios School, with its rich historical archive. Founded in 1927 by Sotirios Anargyros, it operated until 1983 as a boarding school, following the standards of the famous British schools Eaton and Harrow, producing renowned scientists, politicians, and artists. It served as an inspiration for John Fowles’ novel “The Magus”. The author himself had taught at the school. Today, this neoclassical building is used as a venue for conferences and events of cultural and historical significance.

Next, in the center of Chora and on Pefkakia Square, you will visit the mansion of Bouboulis and house of his wife Bouboulina, which also serves as a museum. The mansion features a magnificent carved ceiling in the large hall. It houses personal items and historical artifacts related to the actions of the heroine of the 1821 Revolution. Across the square, there is the neoclassical mansion of the benefactor of Spetses, Sotirios Anargyros, built in the 18th century. Over time, it was used as a city hall, it hosted the French Rothschild family, and served as a venue for cultural events.

Near the harbor of Dapia, where the old gunpowder store is located, you will find the mansion of Chatzigiannis-Mexis, the first governor of the island, which now functions as a museum. Here, you will encounter items representing more than 4,000 years of the island’s cultural history, as well as significant artifacts from the 1821 Revolution.

Continuing our walk towards the Old Port, you will come across the Kapodistrian Cultural Center. This is one of the 120 municipal interdependent schools founded by the first governor of Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias. He aimed to establish at least one school in every village and town, where older students taught younger ones. In 1986, the Cultural Association of Spetses initiated a campaign to renovate the center, which was completed in 2001 with fundings from the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, the Municipality of Spetses, and the Hellenic State. Today, it hosts cultural events, school assemblies, and meetings of various organizations, as well as conferences.

Very close to the Kapodistrian Cultural Center, you will come across the Monastery of Agios Nikolaos. It was built around the beginning of the 18th century, and the flag of the 1821 Revolution was raised on its bell tower.

As you proceed to the Old Port with the captains’ houses perched at points higher than the traditional stone road, the houses with tiled roofs, and the beautiful gardens. The view at the Old Port is beautiful at all hours of the day: the tranquil natural environment, various boats anchored, cafes, bars, fish taverns, meze places, and luxury restaurants create a unique atmosphere.

You will conclude your tour of Spetses with a visit to the Lighthouse, located at the northern edge of the Old Port. Built in 1837, it has been in operation since then and is one of the oldest in Greece, along with the one in Tzia. The stone lighthouse that adorns the old port of Spetses today was first operated in 1885. The view from here is magnificent, as are the gardens around adorned with sculptures by the famous sculptor Natalia Mela, adding a note of unique beauty to this part of the island.

Formally, the suggested route concludes here, and we take the return ferry. However, both islands are inexhaustible in terms of experiences they offer. In this sense, not only would we like to stay longer on these islands, but also return again and again, many times having them in our hearts.