Hymettus

Kalopoula Recreation area, Church of the Ascension (Analypsi), Catholic Church of Agios Markos (Frankomonastero), Kaisariani Monastery, Kalopoula Recreation area

A popular and easy hiking route on the slope of Trelos (meaning crazy person in Greek) as locals call Hymettus, through a green scenery offering a stunning view of the basin below. The Byzantine monastery, now a monument under the Ministry of Culture, is of particular interest. The trail winds through the scenic Hymettus Forest and starts at an altitude of approximately 400 meters.

The route passes through the following landmarks. The sequence of landmarks also indicates the direction of the route.

Note: The orientation and safety of the walker/visitor is their sole responsibility. The present description, the related tracks (gpx) and the other informative material are simply a guide and do not in any way replace the personal responsibility of the visitor.

Main Landmarks:

• Hymettus
• Aesthetic Forest of Kaisariani
• Kalopoula Recreation area
• Monument of Cypriot fighters
• Church of the Ascension (Analypsi) – “Tripia” Church
• Monument of Kaiti Argyropoulou
• Catholic Church of Agios Markos (Frankomonastero)
• Circle of Tranquility
• Center for Environmental Awareness
• Iera Moni Eisodion tis Theotokou (Moni Kaisarianis)
• Kalopoula Recreation area

Mount Hymettus is a mountain located on the eastern side of the Athens basin. With a length of 23 kilometers and a width ranging from 4 to 6 kilometers, it covers an area of 80,000 acres. Despite suffering from destructive wildfires, it continues to be a highly important green space, due to the ongoing reforestation efforts. It is an essential natural reserve for the Attica region. Approximately in the middle, the mountain is divided into two parts: the northern part, that the ancient Athenians used to call Mega Hymettus and the southern part, named Elattona or Anidro Hymettus (today called Mavrovouni and Kontra). The highest peak is called Evzonas, with an altitude of 1026 meters. In recent years, specific measures have been legislated for its protection. Hymettus is one of the most popular destinations for those who want to reconnect with the nature and the natural environment. It is suitable for hiking through marked trails, while the paved road reaches the summit of the mountain.

According to findings and historical sources around the mountain, there were sanctuaries during the antiquity. On the western side of the mountain, there were marble quarries used for the construction of monuments during the Hellenistic and Roman times. The Hellenic Speleological Society has recorded more than 50 caves and potholes on Mount Hymettus. Notable ones include the Paiania or Koutouki Cave, the Liondari Cave, and the Nympholeptos Cave. In the cliffs, rugged and inaccessible areas of Mount Hymettus, there are many rare and significant plant and animal species. While walking on Mount Hymettus, one is impressed by the variety of colors of the wildflowers, the unique beauty of orchids, abundant on the mountain, and the intoxicating scents of plants such as thyme.

The Aesthetic Forest of Kaisariani is one of the most important protected areas of Mount Hymettus. After the end of World War II, invaders and locals used to cut down trees for heating purposes, thus Mount Hymettus was deforested. Kaiti Argyropoulou, the wife of a diplomat, returned from the Middle East to visit the Kaisariani Monastery, which was abandoned, and witnessed the complete destruction of the mountain. She decided to restore the monastery and reforest Mount Hymettus with the support of various associations and societies. Kaiti Argyropoulou served as the president of the Philodassiki Enossi Athinon from 1946 to 1976. As mentioned on her monument located in the Kaisariani Forest, she created the surrounding green area, restored the Kaisariani Monastery, and fought for the protection of Greek nature. The reforestations resulted in a landscape of significant ecological and aesthetic value, well-hidden above the noise of Katechaki Avenue and the lively University Campus. Pine trees (Aleppo pine) dominate the area and can be found either in pure clusters or mixed with cypress, broad-leaved species such as Judas trees, carob trees, and deciduous oak. Kermes oak and wild olive trees accompany pines in rocky areas. Many plant species thrive here, and more than 100 bird and animal species have been recorded, including foxes and hares.

We start our trail from Kalopoula, the forest’s refreshment area, a true oasis in a lush gorge, just 850 meters from the Kaisariani Monastery. Continuing along the trail, making a slight detour, it is worth visiting the Monument of Cypriot Fighters and enjoying the coolness and the view this place offers. We proceed, and after a while, we reach the church of the Ascension (Analypsi). It is commonly known as the “Tripia Ekklisia” or the “Church of the cliff”. It is a church inside a cave with a large open entrance, filled with icons brought by the faithful. In front of the cave stands a massive plane tree, overlooking a pond with small fishes. Analipsi on Mount Hymettus is a rare and unique chapel.

Walking along the paths of the aesthetic forest, it is worth paying attention to the carefully crafted signs that provide information about the unique trees and plants of the forest. As we progress, we will come across a small pond with goldfish, as well as the monument of Kaiti Argyropoulou, president of the Philodassiki Enossi. Taking the uphill path again, we pass by a second water tank supplied by the Spring of Analipsi. The source is considered “holy” and is the subject of Papadiamantis’ short story “The Miracle of Kaisariani.” Following the signs that guide us to the hill of Taxiarchis, an uphill with a panoramic view of the Saronic Gulf, we find the ruins of complex of Christian temples. From this complex of four temples built in different periods on the Hill of the Taxiarchis, only the small single-nave chapel of Agios Markos remains in relatively good condition, along with the cemetery church of the Taxiarchis (17th century). After the Venetians, under Morosini, captured Athens in 1687, they transformed the aforementioned small Byzantine chapel into a Latin church in honor of Agios Markos. Since then, it seems that the Athenians completely abandoned the complex of these three temples, derogatorily calling it the “Frankomonastero”, suggesting its association with the Latins.

The hill is also called the “Balcony of Hymettus”. From here, you can capture the best photos with Athens in the background, and there are stone shaded benches for relaxation. The complex is accessible throughout the day. We descend towards the Monastery of Kaisariani, which is the “heart” of the forest. The monastery complex is under the jurisdiction of the Byzantine Antiquities Authority and you can visit it by purchasing an entrance ticket. It is surrounded by a tall enclosure and has two gates, one to the east and one to the west.

From the Byzantine period, the church, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, and the bathhouse (late 11th – early 12th century) have been preserved. The oldest surviving fresco, depicting the Virgin Mary Deomeni (14th century), is located outside the main church and is visible from the chapel of Agios Antonios, which was added later. Climbing the few steps, we reach the eastern side with the Spring of Krios or Kots Basi, a name attributed to the archaic water flow. Across from the plateau with the massive plane tree, you will find the nursery of the Philodassiki Enossi, where you can purchase plants of the Greek flora, aromatic and medicinal herbs, ornamental plants, etc.

A visit to the Monastery on Great Friday is worthwhile. The Epitaphios procession takes place during daylight, at two o’clock in the afternoon, amidst a forest of lush pine trees, towering cypresses, and imposing plane trees, accompanied by the melodious singing of birds. The crowd gathers in the courtyard, and a particularly emotional moment is when the Hymns are heard sung by a children’s choir.

We conclude our circular route at the municipal refreshment area. Here, you will find tables for picnics, a small pond with goldfish and turtles, with water from the Kalopoula spring, plane trees, cypresses, and plenty of shade. The small space where you enter to order coffee, or a snack takes you back about forty years. Tiles, plastic chairs, a wooden structure with benches on both sides, and a large table in the middle, posters on the walls, and a few books on a bench create a scene from the 1980s.

The journey concludes here, but of course, Trelos offers a plethora of paths and attractions that await you throughout all seasons, providing a breath of fresh air away from the bustling urban life of the capital.